The trip into the city from Noi Bai
Airport takes about an
hour and offers some poignant glimpses of modern Vietnamese life: farmers
tending their fields, great rivers, modern highways that abruptly become bumpy
roads. The drive is especially breathtaking at dusk when the roads fill with
bicycles, and everything takes on the same deep colors as the modern paintings
you see in Hanoi 's
galleries. Somehow the setting sun seems enormous here as it dips into the
cornfields on the horizon.
On the edge of the city the road
dissolves into a maze of winding, narrow, wooded lanes. You are surrounded by
roadside artisans, shops and taverns, then by graceful villas and commuters on
bicycles, cyclos and motorbikes. Modern buildings appear from nowhere, looking
so out of place that you have to wonder if they were dropped from the sky and
just left where they came to rest. While you tell yourself that nothing as
preposterous as Hanoi
can be so beautiful, you cannot help but be dazzled.
Getting
Around
Meter taxis and hired cars are
easy to find in Hanoi .
If you plan an extended visit you might consider renting a bicycle or
motorbike.
The north end of Hoan Kiem Lake is Hanoi 's
"ground zero." Practically all the city’s economical hotels, tourist
shops, and cafés catering to visitors are located here. Not only is it the
oldest part of the city, it is the busiest and most interesting. Every street
is winding, intimate, and shady. At night the lights of storefronts keep the
streets lit and animated.
Depending on which guide book you
read, this district of Hanoi is variously called the "Old Quarter,"
the "Ancient Quarter," and "36 streets." It is wedged
between the northern shore of Hoan Kiem Lake, the walls of the ancient Citadel, and
the levies that protect the city from the Red River .
The 36 little streets in the quarter are each named for a commodity once sold
by all the businesses on that street. Streets here are named for the medicine,
jewelry, fans, copper, horse hair, chicken, and even coffins once sold on them.
This explains why the names of some of the longer streets inexplicably change
after one or two blocks. As you explore, you will still happen upon entire
blocks of tinsmiths, tailors, paper goods merchants, and lacquerware makers.
In the Ancient Quarter the most
appealing mode of transportation for those who do not care to enjoy the
"36 Streets" on foot is the cyclo. Often they are driven by men
wearing pea-green pith helmets that make them look like soldiers.)drivers will
take you to all the obligatory cultural and historical spots.
Sightseeing
Sightseeing on your very first
morning in Hanoi should begin with a visit to Ho
Chi Minh's Mausoleum, without a doubt the city’s single most visited site, and
one of Vietnam 's
most revered places. The cyclo ride from Hoan Kiem Lake takes only about five minutes. The
Mausoleum is open only in the mornings, from 7:30 to 10:30 in the Summer and
from 8:00 to 11:00 in the Winter. There are often large crowds, so arrive
early.
This imposing shrine was built on
the edge of Ba Dinh Square, the place where Ho Chi Minh delivered the Declaration
of Independence of the Republic of Viet Nam to half a million of his countrymen
in 1945, following the surrender of the Japanese. The angular gray granite
edifice stands stern and alone against the skyline. The street and square are
usually so abandoned that the whole scene is enormously stately, like a
miniature version of Tiananmen Square .
As you exit on the side of the
building, look for the ornate yellow former Governor’s Palace, which also faces
Ba Dinh Square .
Although not open to the public, it is a poignant contrast to Ho Chi Minh's
House on Stilts, which sits along a tiny lake in the wooded park behind. He
lived and worked here in incredible simplicity from 1958 to 1969. Built of
teak, the little house is an architectural gem, and many of his personal things
remain on display.
The One Pillar Pagoda is about 50
meters away. This little architectural curiosity gets its name because the
shrine sits atop a single massive pedestal. The original was built by Emperor
Ly Thai To, who was inspired by a dream.
The Ho Chi Minh Museum is probably
Vietnam 's
most important contemporary architectural achievement. Opened to the public in
1990 to commemorate Ho’s centenary, the exhibits are like a huge scrap book
which chronicles his rather transient early years. Guides are available.
You can not help being overwhelmed
by the serenity of Van Mieu (Temple of
Literature )and Quoc Tu Giam (National University ) from the moment you pass
through its towering gates. Together, they make one of Asia ’s
loveliest spots. Hidden from the humming metropolis behind high stone walls and
ancient Frangipani trees are some of Vietnam ’s most magnificent
religious structures and historical treasures. Great pools filled with blooming
Lotus bear names like "Well of Heavenly Clarity". Dating from 1076,
this was this part of Asia ’s most prestigious
center of learning for aristocrats and the children of the Mandarins. The focal
point of the site is the Sanctuary dedicated to Confucius, which is filled with
elaborate Chinese reliquary. Live performances of traditional folk music by
costumed women are ongoing during public hours.
Although not at its geographical
center, little Hoan Kiem Lake is
the very heart of life in Hanoi .
According to a 15th Century legend, a giant turtle presented Emperor Le Loi
with a magic sword with which to defeat Chinese invadors. In accordance with
their pact, the Emperor returned the sword to the turtle after a glorious
victory in battle. Thus, the lake was named Hoan Kiem, or "restored
sword."
The lake itself is like a living
thing with a personality that changes continuously with the hour and the
season. Some of your most vivid memories of Hanoi might come from the 45 minute walks you
take around Hoan Kiem at sunrise, at midday, and again after dark.
Shortly after dawn, hundreds of
people take their daily exercise on the footpath that circles the lake. If you
arrive around six you will see a dozen badminton games, scores of old people
practicing Tai Chi, and many shirtless young men jogging or stretching.
During the day the lake belongs to
tourists and to workers from surrounding government offices. Tour busses and
taxis park at the North end of the lake, near the gates and foot bridge which
lead to the Ngoc Son Pagoda. Scores of young people sell post cards, maps, and
paperback books here. Others shine shoes or offer to memorialize your visit
with photos taken with must surely be war-era 35mm cameras. Although
persistent, they are seldom rude. Many speak wonderful English and are well
worth having a conversation with.
Ngoc Son Pagoda sits on an islet
at the North end of the lake. The oldest structures in the complex date to
1225, though most of what you see was either built or reconstructed in the 19th
century. In addition to the two beautifully ornate Confucianist sanctuaries
dedicated to various long-dead humans, a huge stuffed turtle (which most
certainly never swam in this lake) resides in a glass display case. The spot is
lovely, not only for the ostentatious architecture, but for interesting people
who take refuge from the city here. Your camera may capture old men playing
checkers in the Pavilion of the Stelae, someone fishing quietly among the
willows which practically obscure the island from view, a couple posing for
their wedding photo with the Tortoise Pagoda in the background, or the young
photographers who always gather on the red wooden bridge.
Practically across the street from
the bridge is the water puppetry theater. Scenes from Vietnamese lore and
history (including ancient battles) are elaborately performed by colorful
lacquered puppets in an indoor pond, accompanied by traditional Vietnamese folk
music. It sounds awfully corny, but missing this Hanoi
attraction is like going to Paris and skipping
the Eiffel Tower . Tickets for the evening
performances are cheap and sell out early in the day. Avoid seats closest to
the water or you may get splashed.
Some of the 36 streets that make
up the Ancient Quarter still offer only a single commodity. One of the best is
Hang Quat, where shops sell an incredible array of lacquered wood candle
sticks, bowls, picture frames, religious shrines, and decorative pieces.
Practically every single item is painted in some combination of red, white and
gold. Many of the things are elaborate to the point of being garish. Since
prices are staggeringly low, buy what you can. Like folk art in other
developing nations. Vietnamese silk is among the world’s finest. Hàng Gai
(thread street) has for centuries been home to some of Hanoi ’s best silk shop